If you like your city break destinations to be compact, historic, elegant, cultured and eminently walkable, then Salzburg is the place for you. And if you’re a fan of Christmas and particularly Christmas markets, then put it at the top of your to-go list over the festive season (although it has delights aplenty on offer all year round).

Famous as the birthplace of Mozart and the backdrop for some of the most memorable moments in the film The Sound of Music, beguiling Salzburg is Austria’s fourth largest city and straddles the Salzach River basin at the foot of the Alps, which frame the views at almost every turn. The streets of the UNESCO-listed old town bunch around both sides of the river and are dominated by the medieval Fortress Hohensalzburg high on one side of the steep valley that rises up behind the baroque buildings, elegant squares and narrow passageways.

Fortress Hohensalzburg dominates the Salzburg skyline

We were there for three days over New Year and comfortably ticked off all the main historic sites, many of the many many churches and walks up and around the wooded hillsides and along the banks of the river, with plenty of time for delicious meals, a memorable concert, and some much needed rest after a busy Christmas.

In no order of importance or particular logic of geographic location (as mentioned, this is a compact city, so nothing is very far from anything else), these are my not-to-be-missed Salzburg highlights.

Fortress Hohensalzburg

Salzburg’s most visible landmark is a great spot for fabulous views over the city and beyond to the Alps. You can reach it on foot via the steep paths up the valley side, but it’s much easier and quicker to take the FestungsBahn, Austria’s oldest funicular which has been transporting visitors up to the fortress since 1892 (don’t worry, it was most recently renovated and updated in 2011) and which offers its own memorable views on the minute-long ride.

Once you reach the Fortress, buy an all-inclusive ticket because that gives you the opportunity to look around the inside of what became, over the centuries following its original construction in the 11th century, the one of the biggest castles in Europe.
The State Rooms are particularly magnificent, especially the richly decorated Golden Chamber

The Golden Chamber, one of the State Rooms in the Fortress Hohensalzburg

which has quite the most beautiful stove you’re ever likely to see.

The magnificently decorated stove used to heat the Golden Chamber

It’s also worth the climb to the top of the tower for the panoramic views it offers over the city and the majestic Alps beyond.

Imbergstiege (aka the Dark Staircase)

To get the exact reverse view of the city, from a vantage point up the valley on the opposite side of town to the castle, you’ll need a little more leg power, because it involves climbing the very many steps of the atmospheric Dark Staircase.

Tucked between the buildings on Steingasse, this lengthy climb (you can take a breather about half way up by looking round the attractive small Kapuzinekloster church), is worth it for the alternative view of the city from, and access to, the sprawling Kapuzinerberg park.

St Sebastianskirche - St Sebastian Church…

There are a LOT of churches in Salzburg (for more than 1,000 years the city was second only to the Vatican in its importance as a church metropolis). Like most of them St Sebastian, which sits on the buzzy shopping street, features a strikingly ornate altar

…and cemetery

Unlike most of the others, though, it has the most beautiful cemetery behind it (reached via an adjoining passageway not through the church itself).

A corner of the beautiful cemetery behind St Sebastian Church

One of the first graves you’ll encounter there is that of Mozart’s wife, Constantia who is buried alongside her second husband. (Mozart was buried in an unmarked commoner’s grave the location of which has never been established). The cemetery is a place of peaceful reflection, lined on all four sides by covered passageways featuring a multitude of family mausoleums many of which are magnificently ornate.

Some of the mausoleums which line the side passageways of the St Sebastian cemetery

Saltzburg Cathedral

No visit to Salzburg would be complete without a visit to the imposing 17th century Baroque cathedral with it’s ornately painted domes and lavish, pillared alter.

Destroyed and reconstructed numerous times since it was first built in 767, this was where Mozart was baptised and played and where, if you look closely you can find 370-year-old graffiti scratched into the marble portal

I would say the cathedral is the most magnificent of Salzburg’s churches, but in truth, I think that accolade belongs to

St Peter’s Abbey

Not only is the church approached through quite the most imposing sets of doors you’ll probably ever see, but the inside is a dazzling riot of Baroque architecture and grandiose gilt decoration.

The Abbey is the other church to feature a notably beautiful old cemetery (especially in the snow)

and its catacombs, which were sadly closed whilst we were there, are one of Salzburg’s most visited attractions.

Mozart’s birthplace

The museum in the third floor apartment at number 9 Getreidegasse where the Mozart family lived for 25 years and where all seven of their children were born, only two of whom survived childhood - Wolfgang and his older sister Maria (also a talented musician), is much more interesting to visit than the residence the family moved to when Wolfgang was 12 (which is also a museum now). The exhibits and paintings on display in the 12th century house form a fascinating record of the family and life of the musical genius.

Mirabelle Palace and gardens

Schloss Mirabell with it’ splendid Marble Hall and elegant surrounding gardens served as a residence for the Salzburg aristocracy and was also an important venue for musical events which the Mozart family regularly attended. It was also a place where Mozart regularly performed.

The gardens also have a very different but arguably equally significant musical association. They were the setting for much of one of the Sound of Music’s most beloved numbers - Do Re Mi. Sadly we didn’t have time to do a full Sound of Music tour which take several hours as they also visit locations outside the city, but of course I couldn’t miss out on the chance to pose in front of the steps where this memorable moment took place

The Sound of Music Do Re Mi steps at Schloss Mirabell

Bit colder when I was there tho!

… and concert

Try to go to a concert at Schloss Mirabell if you can. They’re very much classical light, but none the less enjoyable and entertaining for that, and there’s something special about sitting in the very room where Mozart himself played.

The Marble Hall at Schloss Mirabell where Mozart performed and attended concerts

Monchsberg woods, Salzburger Burgergarde and Richterhohe Fortification

Walking across the river from Schloss Mirabell and following the path up the valley takes you past the parish church Mulln, through an ancient archway and steeply upwards into the Monchsberg woods where you can visit one of the two locations of the Museum der Moderne, this one a contemporary building attached to an historic tower; enjoy yet more panoramic views of the city and the castle;

explore the ancient fortifications of the Salzburger Burgergarde

Fortifications of the historic Salzburger Burgergarde

and even encounter a tranquil Buddhist Stupa.

A Buddhist Stupa in the Monchsberg woods above Salzburg

The shops

There are so many gorgeous shops to enjoy in the narrow, winding streets and narrow courtyards that snake off and around the elegant squares of the old town - several of which are the venues for Salzburg’s famous Christmas markets. This is a city which embraces Christmas not just over the festive season but all year round with a number of permanent shops selling an eye-popping selection of Christmas decorations.

If I had to pick my favourite of the little independent outlets, it would be this one we came across in a tiny enclosed courtyard just off one of the main streets running along the river.

The prettiest marmalade shop you ever did see

which sells quite the most gorgeously colourful and extensive menu of marmalades and chutneys I’ve ever seen

And yes of course I bought some - a rhubarb and orange marmalade, a bitter orange one and a lemon one since you ask. And very delicious they all are too I’m happy to report.

There are loads of excellent restaurants in Salzburg. We thoroughly enjoyed Zum Zirkelwirt, St Peter Stiftskulinarium and Imlauer Sky Bar. And try to go to the cafe at the Hotel Sacher and take a moment to wander round the foyer and up the sensational staircase. It’s one of the most beautiful hotel interiors I’ve ever seen.